This paver base calculator tells you exactly how much gravel or crushed stone to order before you start digging. Whether you're tackling a backyard patio or laying a new walkway, getting your base material right is the difference between pavers that stay level for years and ones that shift and settle after the first winter.

Plug in your project dimensions and base depth, and you'll get results in cubic yards—the unit most suppliers actually use. Unlike basic calculators that leave you short, this one factors in compaction automatically. That loose pile of crushed stone shrinks by about 20% once you tamp it down, and we've already accounted for that.

1. Enter Your Project Dimensions Measure the length and width of your paver area in feet. Got an irregular shape? Break it into rectangles and calculate each section separately.

2. Set Your Base Depth Enter how deep you need your base in inches. Not sure? Check the recommendations below—it depends on what you're building and your soil conditions.

3. Adjust the Compaction Factor (Or Leave It Alone) The default is 1.2, which works for most crushed stone and gravel. This accounts for volume loss when loose material compacts into a solid base. Unless you know you need something different, leave it at 1.2.

4. Read Your Results You'll see total volume in cubic yards (for bulk orders) and cubic feet (handy if you're buying bags). The calculator also shows your total square footage for reference.

Base depth isn't one-size-fits-all. What you're building and what's underneath both matter.

Your Soil Makes a Difference

• Sandy or well-draining soil: Use the minimum recommended depth—you're in good shape
• Clay-heavy soil: Add 2-4 inches. Clay holds water and heaves with freeze-thaw cycles, so you need extra base to stay stable
• Previously disturbed soil: Go deeper and compact in layers. Loose fill underneath will settle no matter how good your base looks on top

Not sure what soil you have? Dig a test hole about 12 inches deep. Clay is sticky when wet and cracks when dry. Sandy soil drains fast and won't hold a shape when you squeeze it.

Here's what most calculators get wrong: they give you the finished volume you need, but base material shrinks significantly when you compact it. That pile of crushed stone in your driveway? It'll lose about 20% of its volume once you run a plate compactor over it.

The compaction factor fixes this. A factor of 1.2 means you're ordering 20% extra so you actually end up with the depth you need after compaction.

Stick with 1.2 for standard crushed stone or gravel base. It's the industry standard, and it works whether you're using a plate compactor or just a hand tamper.

Not all gravel is created equal. Here's what actually works for paver installations:

Angular, fractured stone—usually limestone or granite—that locks together when compacted. Ask for "crusher run," "road base," or "QP" (quarry process) at your supplier. The mix of sizes (3/4" down to fine particles) creates a stable base that drains well.

Basically crusher run that's been processed for more consistent sizing. Costs a bit more but levels easier. Worth it if you're particular about getting things flat.

Crushed concrete from demolition projects. Works great and costs less than virgin stone. Just make sure it's actually processed—you want crushed and screened material, not random chunks. Some batches include brick or asphalt mixed in, which is fine for base material.

• Pea gravel or river rock: Round stones don't lock together. Your pavers will shift around like they're floating.
• Sand by itself: Sand is for the setting bed on top, not the structural base underneath
• Fill dirt: Compresses unevenly and holds water. Recipe for a failed patio.

Here's a heads up: when you call the supplier, they'll quote you in tons, not cubic yards.

The easy way: Multiply your cubic yards by 1.35. That gets you close enough for any crushed stone product.

Calculator shows 8.89 cubic yards. 8.89 × 1.35 = 12 tons

Suppliers usually sell in half-ton increments, so round up.

Your calculation is the theoretical amount. Reality includes:

• Spillage while wheelbarrowing
• Low spots in your subgrade that need extra fill
• Material that inevitably spreads past your project edges

Trust me on this one—running short mid-project means another delivery fee ($75-150 is typical) for a few hundred pounds of stone. The extra 10% costs almost nothing and saves real headaches.

• Under 1 cubic yard: Bags or a borrowed pickup truck
• 1-3 cubic yards: Your truck bed or a small trailer (check payload capacity first)
• Over 3 cubic yards: Just pay for delivery. It's worth it.

1. "What's your minimum delivery?" (Usually 2-3 tons)
2. "Is this material processed or raw?"
3. "Where can you dump it?" (Driveway? Street? They need to know)
4. "How far out are you booking?" (Peak season means waiting)

Ignoring compaction entirely. I've seen DIYers order exactly what a basic calculator shows, then end up 20% short once they compact. This calculator handles it, but if you're doing math by hand, don't forget the 1.2 multiplier.

Wrong depth for the job. Four inches works fine for a patio. Under a driveway? Your car will remind you daily that you should have gone 6-8 inches. Settling and cracked pavers are expensive lessons.

Compacting too much at once. Anything deeper than 3 inches needs to be compacted in layers. Add 2-3 inches, compact it thoroughly, then add more. Trying to compact 6 inches in one shot leaves soft spots underneath that'll haunt you later.

Forgetting you still need sand. This calculator covers your gravel base. You'll also need about 1 inch of coarse sand on top as a setting bed for the pavers. That's roughly 1 cubic yard per 300 square feet—separate calculation.

Flat base against a building. Your base should slope away from structures at about 1/8 inch per foot. Otherwise, water pools against your foundation. Plan the slope into your excavation depth.

These numbers will get you close, but every site is a little different. For large or complex projects, your material supplier can help dial in quantities for your specific situation.