Epoxy Calculator: How Much Epoxy Resin Do You Need?

Calculate exactly how much epoxy resin you need for surface coatings and deep pours. Enter your project dimensions to get accurate gallon estimates for tables, floors, countertops, and resin art.

Running out of epoxy halfway through a pour is every resin crafter's nightmare. Once you mix that resin and hardener together, you've got a limited window before it starts curing — and there's no pause button. Ordering too little means a ruined project. Ordering too much means wasted money sitting on your shelf.

This epoxy calculator helps you nail the right amount before you order. It handles two types of projects: surface coatings (like a countertop flood coat) and deep pours (like filling the channel in a river table). Plug in your dimensions, and it instantly tells you how many gallons you need.

No guessing. No math on the back of a napkin. Just accurate numbers so you can order the right amount of resin for your project.

Surface Coating vs. Deep Pour: Which Do You Need?

Before you start punching in numbers, it helps to know which section of the calculator to use. The difference comes down to one question: are you coating a flat surface, or filling a space?

Surface Coating (Flood Coat)

This is for any project where you're spreading a thin, even layer of epoxy across a surface. Think:

  • Countertops and bar tops — that smooth, glass-like finish
  • Table tops — protecting and sealing wood
  • Garage and basement floors — durable, easy-to-clean coating
  • Seal coats — the thin first layer that locks in air bubbles before a flood coat

Surface coats are measured in square feet because you're really just covering area. The standard flood coat is about 1/8-inch thick, and at that thickness, one gallon covers roughly 20 square feet.

Deep Pour (Volume Fill)

This is for any project where epoxy needs to fill a space with real depth:

  • River tables — filling that winding channel between live-edge slabs
  • Casting molds — embedding objects like bottle caps, coins, or flowers
  • Knot and void fills — patching holes, cracks, and bark pockets in wood
  • Thick resin art — layered or 3D pieces with noticeable depth

Deep pours are measured in cubic inches because depth changes everything. A 2-inch river channel uses roughly 16 times more epoxy than a 1/8-inch surface coat over the same footprint. That's not a rounding error — that's the difference between a $40 order and a $300 one.

Not sure which to pick? If your epoxy layer is 1/4 inch or thinner, use the surface section. If it's thicker than 1/4 inch, use the volume section.

How the Math Works

You don't need to do any of this by hand — the calculator handles it — but understanding the formulas helps you sanity-check results and plan for irregular shapes.

Surface Coating Formula

Surface Area = Length (ft) x Width (ft)

Gallons Needed = Surface Area ÷ 20

That "20" is the standard coverage rate: one gallon of mixed epoxy covers about 20 square feet at 1/8-inch thickness. Planning a thicker flood coat? Halve the coverage. At 1/4 inch, a gallon only covers about 10 square feet.

Volume Formula

Volume (cubic inches) = Length (in) x Width (in) x Depth (in)

Fluid Ounces Needed = Volume ÷ 1.805

Gallons Needed = Volume ÷ 231

Where do those numbers come from? One fluid ounce equals 1.805 cubic inches, and one gallon equals 231 cubic inches. So if your river channel is 576 cubic inches, that's about 319 fluid ounces, or roughly 2.5 gallons of mixed resin.

For Irregular Shapes

Got a round table top? Calculate as if it's a square (diameter x diameter), then multiply by 0.785 to get the circular area. For L-shaped countertops, break the shape into two rectangles, calculate each separately, and add them together.

How to Use This Calculator

For Surface Coating Projects

  1. Measure your surface in feet. For countertops, measure the longest straight edge and the depth from wall to front. If your surface wraps around a corner, measure each straight section separately.
  2. Enter length and width in the Surface Dimensions section.
  3. Check your results below — you'll see total square footage and gallons needed for a standard 1/8-inch flood coat.

Pro tip: If you're planning a seal coat plus a flood coat (which is the right move for most wood surfaces), multiply your gallon result by about 1.5 to cover both layers.

For Deep Pour Projects

  1. Measure your void in inches. For a river table, measure the channel at its longest point, widest point, and deepest point. If the channel varies in width, use the average width.
  2. Enter length, width, and depth in the Volume Dimensions section.
  3. Check your results — you'll get fluid ounces and gallons. Fluid ounces are handy for smaller projects where you're buying by the bottle rather than the gallon.

Pro tip: River table channels are almost never perfectly rectangular. The live edges curve, bark voids create pockets, and the bottom isn't always flat. Add 15-20% to your calculated amount to account for these irregularities.

Epoxy Coverage Quick-Reference

Application

Typical Thickness

Coverage per Gallon

Typical Project

Seal coat

1/16"

~40 sq ft

First layer on raw wood

Standard flood coat

1/8"

~20 sq ft

Countertops, bar tops

Thick flood coat

1/4"

~10 sq ft

High-build table finish

Shallow fill

1/2"

~5 sq ft

Knot fills, shallow voids

Deep pour

1"

~2.5 sq ft

River tables, casting

Extra-deep pour

2"

~1.25 sq ft

Thick river table channels

These are approximate averages. Your specific product may differ — always check the manufacturer's technical data sheet for their recommended coverage rates.

Project Examples With Real Numbers

Kitchen Countertop Refinish

An L-shaped kitchen counter: one section is 8 ft x 2.5 ft, the other is 4 ft x 2.5 ft.

  • Total surface area: (8 x 2.5) + (4 x 2.5) = 30 sq ft
  • Seal coat: 30 ÷ 40 = 0.75 gallons
  • Flood coat: 30 ÷ 20 = 1.5 gallons
  • Total for both coats: ~2.25 gallons
  • Order recommendation: 2.5 to 3 gallons (accounts for edge drip-off, mixing waste, and any touch-ups)

River Table — Walnut Slab

The river channel measures 60 inches long, averages 10 inches wide, and you want a 1.5-inch deep pour.

  • Channel volume: 60 x 10 x 1.5 = 900 cubic inches
  • Gallons: 900 ÷ 231 = 3.9 gallons
  • Plus a surface flood coat on the whole 60" x 30" table top: (5 ft x 2.5 ft) = 12.5 sq ft ÷ 20 = 0.625 gallons
  • Total project: ~4.5 gallons
  • Order recommendation: 5 to 5.5 gallons. River channels always have more volume than a perfect rectangle because of the curved live edges and bark pockets.

Two-Car Garage Floor

Garage is 20 ft x 22 ft with a standard two-coat system.

  • Surface area: 20 x 22 = 440 sq ft
  • Primer coat: 440 ÷ 40 = 11 gallons
  • Topcoat: 440 ÷ 20 = 22 gallons
  • Total: ~33 gallons
  • Order recommendation: 36-38 gallons. Concrete absorbs epoxy, and older, more porous garage floors can soak up significantly more on the primer coat. Better to have a few extra gallons than end up with thin, patchy coverage in the corners.

Resin Art Tray (Round)

A 14-inch diameter round serving tray mold, 3/8 inch deep.

  • Square equivalent: 14 x 14 x 0.375 = 73.5 cubic inches
  • Circle adjustment: 73.5 x 0.785 = 57.7 cubic inches
  • Fluid ounces: 57.7 ÷ 1.805 = 32 fl oz (about 1 quart)
  • Order recommendation: 40 fl oz. Resin art often needs a bit more than calculated because you'll want enough to torch out bubbles, spread evenly, and not worry about running thin at the edges.

Penny-Top Bar

You're embedding pennies in a 6 ft x 2 ft bar top with a 1/4-inch epoxy flood over the top.

  • Surface area: 6 x 2 = 12 sq ft
  • Gallons at 1/4" thickness: 12 ÷ 10 = 1.2 gallons
  • Order recommendation: 1.5 gallons. The pennies displace some volume (saving you a little epoxy), but the gaps between them create tiny channels that need to be completely filled. These roughly cancel out, so just add the usual 10-15% margin.

Common Mistakes That Waste Epoxy (or Ruin Projects)

Confusing "kit size" with "mixed volume." A "1.5-gallon kit" with a 2:1 mix ratio contains 1 gallon of resin and 0.5 gallons of hardener. You get 1.5 gallons of mixed epoxy total — not 1.5 gallons of resin plus additional hardener. Read the label carefully. Some brands advertise kit size, others advertise mixed yield. That misunderstanding alone can leave you a gallon short on a big project.

Using table top epoxy for a deep pour. Table top (coating) epoxy and deep pour epoxy are different formulas. Table top epoxy is designed for thin layers and cures fast. If you pour it 2 inches deep, the heat from the curing reaction can crack it, yellow it, or in extreme cases cause it to smoke. Always match the epoxy type to your pour depth.

Forgetting to account for the seal coat. Almost every wood project needs a thin seal coat before the main flood coat. This layer soaks into the grain and seals air pockets, preventing bubbles from rising up through your final coat. If you only calculate enough for the flood coat, you'll come up short.

Measuring feet when you meant inches (or vice versa). The surface section of this calculator uses feet. The volume section uses inches. Mixing these up gives you wildly wrong results. A 20-foot measurement entered as 20 inches would underestimate by a factor of 12.

Skipping the waste factor. Epoxy coats the inside of your mixing bucket, sticks to your stir stick and spreader, drips off edges, and fills micro-cracks you didn't know existed. Always add 10-15% beyond your calculated amount.

Tips for Getting Your Estimate Right

Round up, not down. If the calculator says 2.3 gallons, buy 3 gallons. You can always use leftover resin for a small project, coasters, or test pours. You can never un-ruin a pour that ran short.

Measure at multiple points. River table channels aren't uniform. Measure the width at 3-4 spots along the length and use the average. Same with depth — check the deepest and shallowest points and split the difference.

Do a dry test with water. For complex shapes where math alone isn't reliable (like a heavily curved river channel or an irregular mold), fill the space with water, then pour the water into a measuring cup. That's your volume. Just make sure the surface is completely dry before working with epoxy.

Plan your pours in layers for deep projects. Most deep pour epoxies max out around 1 to 2 inches per layer (check your product's specs). If your channel is 3 inches deep, that's two separate pours with 24-48 hours of cure time between them. Factor that into both your timeline and your epoxy budget — you'll need separate batches mixed fresh for each pour.

Keep extra on hand for touch-ups. Even a perfect pour sometimes needs a small touch-up where air bubbles left craters or an edge didn't flow all the way to the corner. Having 4-8 extra ounces of mixed epoxy gives you a safety net without a big added cost.

Check your work area temperature. Ideal conditions for most epoxies are between 70-80°F. Below 65°F, epoxy gets noticeably thicker and won't self-level as well, which can cause uneven coverage. Above 85°F, it cures faster, giving you less working time. Neither changes how much you need by much, but it absolutely affects how well it spreads.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much epoxy resin do I need for a table?

For a surface coat on a typical dining table (6 ft x 3 ft = 18 sq ft), you need about 1 gallon of mixed epoxy for a standard 1/8-inch flood coat, plus roughly half a gallon for the seal coat underneath. So about 1.5 gallons total for a flat table top.

If you're building a river table with a deep pour channel, that number jumps significantly. The channel alone on a 5-foot river table can easily require 3 to 5 gallons depending on width and depth, plus another gallon or so for the final surface coat. Plug your specific channel dimensions into the volume section of the calculator to get an exact number.

How many square feet does a gallon of epoxy cover?

About 20 square feet at the standard 1/8-inch flood coat thickness. Here's how it scales:

  • 1/16" seal coat: ~40 sq ft per gallon
  • 1/8" flood coat: ~20 sq ft per gallon
  • 1/4" thick coat: ~10 sq ft per gallon

Double the thickness, halve the coverage. It's a straightforward relationship once you know the baseline.

How do I calculate epoxy for a round surface?

Measure the diameter. Calculate as if it were a square (diameter x diameter for area, or diameter x diameter x depth for volume), then multiply by 0.785. That factor adjusts for the circular shape.

So a 24-inch diameter round table mold, 1/4 inch deep: 24 x 24 x 0.25 = 144 cubic inches as a square, x 0.785 = 113 cubic inches as a circle. That works out to about 62.6 fluid ounces, or roughly half a gallon.

Should I buy extra epoxy beyond what the calculator shows?

Yes — always add 10-15% on top of your calculated amount. Here's where that extra material goes:

  • Coating the inside of mixing cups and stir sticks
  • Dripping off edges (especially on countertops without a dam)
  • Filling tiny imperfections in wood grain and concrete pores
  • Correcting any thin spots or missed corners during the pour

For river tables specifically, bump that up to 15-20% because live edges are never perfectly straight and always have more volume than a rectangle calculation assumes.

What's the difference between a surface coat and a deep pour epoxy?

They're actually different products with different chemistry, not just different application thicknesses.

Surface coat (table top) epoxy cures in 12-24 hours, self-levels beautifully in thin layers, and produces a high-gloss finish. But it generates more heat as it cures, which means it can only be applied 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick per layer.

Deep pour epoxy cures much more slowly (24-72 hours), generates far less heat, and can be poured 1 to 2 inches deep in a single layer. The trade-off is that it takes longer to fully harden and the surface finish isn't always as glass-smooth as a coating epoxy.

Many projects use both: deep pour to fill channels and voids, then a coating epoxy on top for that perfect glossy surface.

How thick should an epoxy surface coat be?

For most projects, you'll want two layers:

  1. Seal coat: 1/16 inch. This thin first layer soaks into the material and seals air pockets. Without it, bubbles trapped in wood grain will rise through your flood coat as it cures, leaving pinholes and craters.
  2. Flood coat: 1/8 inch. This is your main coat that creates the smooth, glossy finish. Some people add a second flood coat for extra depth and protection, sanding lightly between layers.

Total buildup with seal coat + one flood coat is about 3/16 inch, or roughly the thickness of two credit cards stacked together.

Can I pour epoxy thicker than 2 inches at once?

Only with a product specifically rated for it. Standard table top epoxy should never be poured deeper than 1/4 inch per layer — it'll overheat. Regular deep pour epoxy tops out at 1 to 2 inches per layer.

A few specialty deep-pour products on the market allow up to 4 inches in a single pour, but they take 3 to 5 days to fully cure. Pouring too thick with the wrong product causes an exothermic reaction (the epoxy generates its own heat), which can crack the piece, turn it yellow, or in severe cases cause the resin to actually smoke and warp.

When in doubt, pour thinner layers and wait. It takes longer but it's far safer than losing an expensive slab to a cracked pour.

How do I get the resin-to-hardener ratio right?

Follow the manufacturer's instructions exactly — this isn't a recipe where you can eyeball it. The two most common ratios are:

  • 1:1 — equal parts resin and hardener by volume
  • 2:1 — two parts resin to one part hardener by volume

Measure using graduated mixing cups with clear markings. Getting the ratio even slightly off can result in epoxy that stays permanently tacky, never fully hardens, or cures with a cloudy, uneven finish.

One mistake people make: confusing volume ratio with weight ratio. A product with a 2:1 volume ratio has a different weight ratio because resin and hardener have different densities. Stick with volume measurements unless the product specifically calls for weighing.

Does temperature affect how much epoxy I need?

Not the amount, but definitely how it behaves. Epoxy thins out in warmer conditions and thickens in cooler ones:

  • 70-80°F (ideal): Epoxy flows easily, self-levels well, reasonable working time
  • Below 65°F: Epoxy gets sluggish, may not self-level, and takes much longer to cure. You might need to spread it more manually, but you won't need more volume.
  • Above 85°F: Epoxy thins out and cures faster, giving you less time to work. On a porous surface, thinner epoxy can absorb more into the material, slightly increasing consumption.

The bigger concern with temperature is cure quality, not quantity. A pour done at 60°F might technically have enough material but cure unevenly or stay soft for days.

What should I do if I run out of epoxy mid-pour?

First — don't panic, but act fast. Here's the reality depending on your project type:

For a surface flood coat: If you catch it early while the epoxy is still liquid, you can mix a small batch and add it to the uncovered area. Work it toward the existing wet edge so the two batches blend. You may see a faint line where they meet, but it's usually minor and can be sanded and recoated.

For a deep pour: This is trickier. If the first layer has already started to gel, you'll need to let it fully cure (24-48 hours), then lightly sand the surface and pour your second batch on top. It bonds well but may show a visible line between layers.

The real fix is prevention. Always order 10-20% more than calculated. A few extra dollars of resin is cheap insurance compared to the cost of the wood, your time, and the frustration of a compromised finish.